24 Hours With... Huishan Zhang
Browns and Huishan Zhang go way back - to 2010 to be exact. When our very own founder, Joan Burstein, (aka Mrs. B, aka the “fairy godmother of fashion”) spotted the China-born designer with her keen eye for next-generation talent, and loved his fresh Western vision as seen through his distinctive Eastern lens. Browns launched Huishan’s eponymous brand as his first ever stockist, and the rest, as they say, is history… He’s been making waves in the tides of fashion ever since.
With Huishan Zhang’s return to Browns for the new season, we jumped at the opportunity to catch up with the designer on his return to London around Fashion Week a couple of months ago.
“Morning rituals."
“I spend my time between two cities, Qingdao and London.”
MORNING
What time do you wake up and what's the first thing you do when you get up?
When I’m in London I normally wake up around 7AM and the first thing I do is check WeChat to see what’s been going on through the night with my team in China, and vice-versa when I’m in China.
Do you have any morning rituals?
My team and I jump on a daily call to catch up. As I’m living between different time zones, my days always hit the ground running so I normally don’t have time to have my first coffee until the afternoon.
Where do you live and how long have you lived there?
I spend my time between two cities, Qingdao and London.
Favourite thing about your neighbourhood/where you live?
My London neighbourhood is Bloomsbury where I have the British Museum on my doorstep. My favourite thing is being able to visit anytime and being right in the heart of the city.
What does your average day look like in the lead up to Fashion Week?
My average day is a busy one! I work on styling the collection, casting, fittings, meeting with the production agency, reviewing seating charts and, importantly, checking in with both teams in London and China.
Describe yourself in three words...
Creative, curious and spontaneous.
And how would your friends describe you?
A true Virgo.
“My average day before Fashion Week is a busy one!”
“My mood board for my Autumn Winter 2023 collection research.”
“The Huishan Zhang Atelier in China.”
DAYTIME
What is your idea of a perfect day?
A normal day. Having a catch up with my mum, working and then dinner with friends in the evening.
When you’re not working, what do you do for fun?
I love travelling and seeing my friends. I love to watch films and feel inspired. My AW23 collection was inspired by Hitchcock’s femme fatales and film noir.
What did you do on your last day off?
For my last day off I actually stayed in to unwind and reset. I find doing nothing is such a luxury.
What do you need more time for?
I would love to spend more time in London.
What was your route into design and how did you begin Huishan Zhang?
After graduating from Central Saint Martins - and a stint working in the Dior Couture Atelier in Paris where I was chosen by Delphine Arnaut - my first ever collection was handpicked by Mrs. B herself for Browns, which was major! She even put my first collection in the window. I then had a dress from my very first collection selected by the Victoria and Albert Museum for its permanent collection. It was such an honour, and still is, to be a part of an institution.
Please tell us more about your connection to Mrs B. and Browns?
Mrs. B came round to my home to see my first ever collection. Every season after that, she would come to my showroom in Paris to see my work. She was my mentor, always checking in to see how I was doing.
One thing you can’t live without?
Film, it’s a constant source of inspiration.
What makes you laugh? What makes you cry? What gives you goosebumps?
My goddaughter makes me laugh. The last time I cried was at my first show back at London Fashion Week after three years. I wasn’t able to travel due to Covid so it was very emotional to see all the support. I got goosebumps when my fashion show was on the front page of The Times newspaper in February this year - I still pinch myself when I think about it.
"Some things that bring me joy."
“On set for the Huishan Zhang Party Capsule.”
“At my favourite restaurant in China.”
EVENING
What’s on your bookshelf?
I recently bought The Chinese Classic Pattern book by Qinghui Huang. It showcases traditional Chinese patterns and has such a beautiful cover.
What are you listening to at the moment?
I’m listening to all different types of music as I’m trying to source ideas for the soundtrack to my next show.
What do you usually do for dinner?
When I’m back home in China, there’s this restaurant which serves fresh steamed seafood (a local cuisine). I love taking friends there when they come to visit.
What’s your favourite restaurant? And what do you eat/drink there?
I love The Fumoir Bar in Claridges - it’s such an institution. I love discovering new restaurants every time I’m in London as there’s always something new, but I always go back to The Fumoir for a Martini.
Do you have any evening rituals?
I wind down by listening to global news. My company is split between two countries, so I like to stay on top of what is going on in the world and it’s good to remove myself from fashion at the end of the day.
What do you dream about?
That would be revealing what I wish for…!
Words: Sophy Davis Russell
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